Bikaner

Founded by a scion of the house of Jodhpur, this Rathore kingdom is five centuries old. Its Junagarh Fort has some of the best-maintained palaces and painted apprtments. Located deep in the desert, it is also known for its Camel Breeding Farm. While the havelis of Bikaner are less explored, the temple of Deshnoke where rats are given free reign makes a memorable excursion for visitors.

The township spreads around Junagarh fort, the foundation for which was laid by Raja Rai Singh. Maharaja Ganga Singh added to the fort in the early years of this century, but this outstanding ruler also shifted out of here to his new palace, Lallgarh, one of the smartest palaces in Rajasthan.

Bhanwar Niwas: A haveli built in the early years of this century by Seth Bhanwarlal Rampuria, it combines Western aesthetics with a regional sensibility to create a novel form of architecture in the traditional red sandstone used in the city's buildings. Well maintained, Bhanwar Niwas is known for its blue drawing room, its grand staircase, library, and impressive entrance hall. As a hotel, it has 14 rooms, a multi-cuisine restaurant, and a bar.

Jaswant Bhawan: The last prime minister of the state of Bikaner built himself a simple home in 1926 without any fuss or clutter, reminiscent of what was to come in post-independent India. The rooms, however, were spacious, and the planning took care to incorporate lounges and courtyards. Now a hotel with 12 rooms, and meals according to a fixed menu.

Karni Bhawan: The last maharaja of Bikaner, and an Olympic shooter, Dr Karni Singh built this art-deco palace in 1940, and surrounded it with a bower of trees. It is now a 15-room hotel, and serves Rajasthani meals on request.

Lallgarh Palace: The most perfect example of a Rajput palace, Lallgarh was built at the turn of the century and is a sprawling red sand-stone residence with separate wings, one of which is occupied by members of the royal family while another wing forms a museum. Pierced screens shade large windows from the harsh sun of the desert, while extensive corridors lined with photographs connect with rooms and suites where the princes once trained in the art of kingship. There are formal lounges, and meals are served in a dining hall reminiscent of the banquets once hosted here.

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