Chittaurgarh Fort, Chittaurgarh

Probably India's greatest medieval fort, and its most chivalrous, it was from here that the Sisodias went to war against the Mughals at the famous battle of Haldighati. Set on a high. plateau, Chittaurgarh sprawls supremely above the surrounding countryside. First established in the 7th century, Chittaur became the gaddi for the Sisodia rulers who proved themselves indomitable fighters. Its fortifications meander along the ridges of the hills, and from these concealed vantage points, they extended their sway over their kingdom.

Sacked in 1303 through an act of treachery perpetrated by Allauddin Khilji -in his attempt to win over Rani Pad mini, Chittaur fell twice more in the 16th century, first to the forces of the Sultan of Gujarat, and later the Mughal Akbar. Abandoned then by its rulers who continued to wage guerilla warfare against the Mughals (making valorous legends out of the names of Rana Sangha and Rana Pratap), the Sisodias later established a new capital at Udaipur. Chittaurgarh's abandonment led to the ruin of its palaces and apartments, and its durbar halls. Little has survived the ravages of the pillaging armies and of time, but  there is enough to provide a glimpse of what must have been one of Rajputana's greatest citadels. These include the ruins of Rana Kumbha's palace as well as what is believed to be Rani Padmini's palace. Both are in a state of ruin, and there is little that hints at architectural splendour, because many of the subsidiary buildings and much of the ornamentation no longer exists. Chittaurgarh also houses the palaces, again in ruins, of the brave Sisodia warriors, Jaimal and Patta. Among the buildings that are in a reasonable state of preservation are two towers, the 22-metre high, 12th century Kirti Stambh which was built by a Jain merchant and is carved with figures of Jain tirthankaras, and Vijay Stambh, the 37-metre high victory tower carved with episodes from the Hindu epics, raised in the 15th century to commemorate a battle victory against the rulers of Malwa and Gujarat.

A religious people, the Rajputs also paid homage to their gods in elaborate rituals. No wonder there are so many temples that can still be visited within the fortifications of Chittaurgarh. These include the Kumbha Shyam and Kalika Mata temples, as well as the Meera temple where a princess of the royal family composed many of the religious hymns to Krishna for which she is still remembered.

Chittaurgarh is 90 km from Udaipur airport, which is its entry point from several other parts of the state. Basic accommodation is available, and restaurants are rudimentary. Best visited as an excursion from Udaipur.

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