Lohagarh, Bharatpur

Underrated by most visitors to Bharatpur who head for its national park and bird sanctuary, the fort held by the Jat rulers of this state has bastions of sand that were strong enough to absorb the impact of canonshells that simply embedded themselves within it. Impregnable to most attacks, this 18th century fort was ordered by Maharaja Suraj Mal, the founder of the dynasty at Bharatpur.

Lohagarh is located in the heart of the old city, and its entrance is from a crowded street that leads through the massive entrance gate into what is a living fort with several modern additions.

However, the part of the fort that has been preserved consists of a sprawling palace complex since it combines Rajput and Mughal architecture with Jat influences in building style, a few of the eight original towers of which Jawahar Burj and Fateh Burj are of particular interest, and floors laid with tiles.

Visitors are also recommended a visit to Deeg, 32 km away, the summer retreat of the Jats, where the palaces take on a languid quality. Since it was a leisure retreat, the buildings are set apart with gardens interspersing in the spaces in between. One complex, the Monsoon Palace, is fronted by coloured fountains and used machinery set into the ceiling that recreated the sound of thunder - a welcome sound in the parched desert country.

Bharatpur is 56 km from Agra, 176 km from Jaipur and 184 km from Delhi. It is well connected by road, and has a network of accommodation choices, including within the sanctuary.

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